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Your hacks talk about "exposing in a closet" as a means to run past previously-exposed frames. For many cameras (probably ALL that don't use off-the-film metering) there's a far easier system, and one far less likely to result in extra light getting to the emulsion.
Place the camera lens-down on a FLAT surface in daylight. (Ideally, one which is slightly resilient so that the lens housing rests IN the surface rather than ON it, IYSWIM.) If the camera has such facilities, set it for no-flash, maximum underexposure, infinity lock, focus lock. Now simply fire off the shutter, noting that the camera BODY may move up as any autofocus system drives in the pre-shutter-release phase of exposure.
The point about this procedure is that ONLY the lens is obstructed - all other aspects (autofocus sensors, exposure sensors) can operate normally. Some cameras may refuse to expose (autofocus detects "subject" closer than minimum focus distance), but they can normally be fooled by going to infinity lock and/or focus lock.
Doesn't work well if the flash fires, but otherwise works a treat.
For non-off-the-film TTL-metering cameras, put camera on a tripod, depress shutter halfway to get focus- and exposure-lock, then with the other hand cover the lens (oversize lens cap is ideal - just hang it on the front). If the camera has manual-override of exposure settings, even easier. Fit the lens cap, force (say) default flash exposure, fire away. (I use the "O" mechanical 1/100 second setting on my Minolta XD-7, for example.)
I've used these techniques for decades, without a single problem.
Tim Forcer
Mon May 28 23:44:37 PDT 2001
WHAT I DO IS , SEE WHAT SPPED THE CAMERA WANTS to take the picture at , using the led inside the lense veiwer and then close sutter so the spped comes down to around 4 seconds .
then set up your picture and then choose manual , using the shutter release press it and count to 2 , then cover the lense with a piece of black card then re-aranger your picture , and then remove card from infront of the lense and count a further 2 seconds then press stop
this means that the 1st image is exposed for 2 seconds , then the second image is exposed for a further 2 seconds and thus the file should be fully exposed , all that is left to do is develope
make sure if you put it into a shop write a note on the cartdride saying "print all" as most developers wont print them they think it is a faulty one .
hope the info helps
PAUL
Sun Aug 18 13:34:47 PDT 2002
35 mm film will not always wind to the same place, the frames may be slightly offset, causing an undesired effect [such as overlapping exposures] I had this problem once, negatives looked like []s being first set, {} being second set:
{[}{][}{]}{][}{]}
tonsofpcs
Sun Sep 15 20:12:03 PDT 2002
Does anybody know to to double expose with a different kind of camera ?? I have one of the older ones where u have to set your own shutter speed and all that. So if anybody knows how to do it with that kind of camera that would be great... Thanks.
Aaron Perez
Thu Nov 6 21:52:17 PST 2003
Do you have a full manual camera? Try this site for help: Multiple Exposure Ideas
Chieh Cheng
Sun Nov 9 01:27:06 PST 2003
im my 35mm manula camere i use this trick:
1)take the first photo.
2)use the roll-back lever to maintain the film in tension.
3)push the roll-back buttuon
4)arm the shutter very slow
5)thak the secon photo
cATO
Mon Nov 17 05:54:24 PST 2003
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